You have to love this place for the vastness and quality of food choices. Considered the heart of the Chiapas communities, it boasts not only some of the best scenery in the country but also the most traveller friendly city. Indigenous people wearing the same tapestries they did centuries ago, their eyes tell the story thick with remorse and religion cast upon them as they beg you for food whilst travellers enjoy a local french patisserie. As we preferred to dine in the hustle and bustle of the pedestrian street Real de Guadalupe, most of the eateries below can be found here, a mecca for food, drink and music.
A vibrant European influence resides here as international travellers and native Latin Americans congregate here to both create and witness the beauty and cultural diversity of San Cristobal. The neighbouring Oaxaca state really steals the show with their authentic Moles and traditional Mexican, whilst in stark contrast only #1 of my list below is authentic Mexican.This is just more evidence that this is a wonderful place to taste the fusion of flavours that come with a melting pot of culture. Its like looking through a kaleidoscope of colour and culture.
1. The Best Fish Tacos I’ve ever had.
When my Spanish teacher, a local in the city for 16 years, recommended it I knew with absolute certainty that we had to experience it ourselves. Its simple, its fresh, battered in a perfect combination of crisp – and juicy fish pieces. Salsa, mayonnaise and fresh herbs adorn perfectly constructed corn tortillas. Three for 35 pesos ($3 NZD) is just the right amount, and if you have someone to order the ‘camaron’ (prawn tacos) to share then you’ve pretty much hit taco fish heaven. We have found them since but never such great value.
Directions: If heading EAST on Real De Guadalupe towards the church with the steps, pass Tacos del Mar (don’t be fooled – its another place that claims ‘best fish tacos in town’) and hang a left on a street called Avenida de la Almolonga. It should be in the next three blocks on the left, its light blue….
2. La Estancia: Venezuelan Cuisine is where its at
In our desire to taste something different, this little blink-and-you-miss-it Venezuelan restaurant has a flag proudly blowing by the door. Impressed straight off with a drink made out of the biggest papaya I have ever seen, is brown and deliciously burn caramel in flavour. Our menu starts with Arepas, little fresh buns filled with pork or chicken. They were nice but probably nothing we haven’t tried before, mostly because ordering pork chop in Spanish almost always ends up being ham. Then comes the Venezuelan version of a taco: somewhere between a corn tortilla and a crispy tostada except with the plantain taste, topped with pulled beef in rich, morish sauce, exceptional. I was enthralled to find such a gem. Other dishes include a polenta-corn like slice filled with cheese and served with steak. … Real de Guadalupe 85
3. Equal Place: Tonantzin for Cheap Eats, La Tertulia San Cris for Wicked Crepes
I loved Tonantzin because the old-fashioned burger is just plain good with mustard and quality meat for only 50 pesos ($4-$5 NZD). Upon returning the Chicken Enchiladas in Mole (chocolate) Sauce was sublime at Tonantzin but a comparison of salads renders very even competition. La Tertulia is ranked #2 on Tripadvisor, the popularity based on the fresh fruit chocolate crepes and amazing value for money breakfasts. Ultimately both are fantastic, cheap go-tos, Tonantzin for dinner and La Tertulia for breakfast or desserts. Tonantzin: Real de Guadalupe 25E and La Tertulia is Calle Cuauhtemoc 2 south of the Central Zocalo.
A comparison of salads, Mexican Salad at Tonantzin and a salad of bacon, nuts, cumin and cheese at La Tertulia.
4. El Punto Pizza: Totally worth an injection of gluten
There are so many pizza joints at the main stretch of Real de Guadalupe, and its stiff completion especially seeing as Kinoki, the local art house cinema with a terrace tables overlooking the street, serves them too. But El Punto Pizza thin crust is like crispy and flaky, and the toppings are generously laden with quality cheese, the combination of half and half and the size for your money all contribute to its awesomeness. Artichoke and chicken on one half, avocado and beef with spicy sauce on the other = my tastebuds rejoicing with satisfaction… Real de Guadalupe 47
5. El Cau… lounging in Southern Spain?
They have hit a sweet spot serving up traditional Barcelonian dishes in an area that is full of Mexican and Argentine food. With live music, quaint candle lit tables for romantic mood lighting, it’s a wonderful ambience. I especially love the wine bottles vases for flowers. Tapas transport you straight to Spain: Capsicum and anchovies in olive oil with grilled cheese, sautéed crab, pâté, marinated mushrooms or aged manchego cheese. Service was outstanding: the owner took time to talk to us, recommend a wine, organized artisan grain crackers for me to eat gluten free, finished with complimentary chocolate truffles… I would recommend it as a light meal – with one very hungry man and a bottle of wine we spent three days of our normal food budget. We ended up leaving a very healthy tip (also because it was my first bottle of wine we’ve ordered in six weeks… hic….). Real de Guadalupe 57A
To Drink
La Viña de Bacco is quite simply the coolest little wine bar we witnessed in our travels of Mexico. Showing a full list of European and South American wines but also proudly displaying their domestic brands. You can pick up a little glass of white or red starting at 20 pesos ($1.80NZD) and a satisfyingly voluptuous Argentine Malbec for 180 pesos ($16NZD). They serve free tapas and popcorn with each order and its always hard to get a seat. What’s not to like?
A boutique IPA from Baja California, Mexico, and many more quality brews at La Internacional Cerveceria
There are so many delightful places, but we love Oh la la for Hot Chocolate as well as pastries and gorgeous little cakes. Try Carajillo Cafe for “Slow Coffee” where they show you and explain in Spanish the traditional techniques of the local Chiapas region. Burgers and Beer at La Internacional Cerveceria is awesome for boutique Belgian or Mexican brews (including the IPA below, which far exceeds any examples back home for the same price!). A splendid selection of organic teas is to be found at Lum – Casa de Te which means House of Tea. You can smell as many as you like on ordering, they also place the timer next to you for the brew but they always offer honey and free hot water refills. Finally, a boutique cinema Kinoki is a fave for beer or tea as you can sit admiring the terrace view of the street, lounge in sofas enjoying quirky decor, or sip away in an art house film for only 35 pesos ($3NZD) – making it a real hit for locals and travellers alike.
Thanks for reading!
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