The urban sprawl of Guadalajara has a vast array of culture and markets to stick one’s teeth into. Upon landing here we found a culture with the most stark contrasts; probably the most significant we would find in the whole of México, though we could not have known at the time. The first two weeks we found so much inspiration. Here I hope to highlight the rise and fall of travelling in Jalisco: a culture shock coinciding with overall awe, and the reprieve we found in the outer city all thanks to our wonderful hosts. It’s true, there’s nothing like hanging with the locals.
Wander the Zócalo
Just around north of the central ‘zócalo’ the contrast begins. Staunch army patrol hang close to our hostel, the streets are filled with litter and the surrounding blocks grey, grim and intimidating. The air is highly polluted, so on the second day I already had a bleeding nose -which hasn’t happened since my trip to Shanghai. However, the city was saved by my first European-influenced architectural experience. You cannot help but be dumbstruck by your first real cathedral. The view outside our window of central Guadalajara, is like nothing I have seen before. A cascade of yellow cathedral tops, colonial heritage and water features, the luminous buildings at night imparting an almost fairy tale ambience.
Instituto Cultura Cabañas
Pass the façade east of the zócalo on “Avenida Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla” to find the lovely Instituto Cultura Cabañas. An abandoned orphanage from the revolution, white wall squares dotted with yellow lemons and purple flowers, crisp architectural shots and scaling murals make this a must see. Most cultural attractions in Mexico cost next to nothing, so it is astonishing this place costs 70P ($6.50 NZD). Entry on Tuesdays is free so you could spend your money on a tour guide instead. Today we also explored the markets nearby the Institute. Today I felt every bit absorbed into marbled walls and diverse cuisine.
Do as the Mexicans
Jalisco region is home to two of México’s crowned jewels, mariache and tequila. Mexican folklore and Mariache erformances at Casa Bariache are enough to make your heart race. We sipped fine tequila straight with a sangria chaser, loud music blaring, practically indoctrinates you into the country. Literally translating to ‘Little Blood’, Sangrita is a perfect accompaniment to cleanse your palate. Here we tried Torta Ahogadas, an authentic dish of Jalisco, which you can find anywhere: a mix of carnes (meats) in a sweet bun smothered with tonnes of spicy salsa. Thanks to this experience there was no doubt now we felt well and truly in México, which put to rest any grim first impressions.
Tlaquepaque & Chapultepec: Guadalajara’s Meccas
Checking out the gorgeous pueblas, or villages in Guadalajara convinces us it is alive, bursting with life, music and culture. Tlaquepaque is a trendy colonial town where you can find traditional craftwork unique to the Jalisco region. A stratosphere of rainbow painted houses, hanging stars in the multitude of restaurants that inhabit old mansions. At El Abajeno Restaurant, a mariache band sings romance whilst our taste buds were overwhelmed by a tequila-citrus concoction and food with flare. Take a taxi here so be sure to ask at the hostel you are staying what the going rate for one is. Chapultepec is also a mecca for cafes and eateries, the streets dotted with lights reminiscent of Melbourne alleyways, contemporary art galleries and live music tantalizing on every corner. Be warned these Western-Europe fused villages are expensive, but I adore them by design.
Visit the Gorgeous Lake Chapala
The highlight of our whole visit here was by far Lake Chapala. The lake spreads out before your eyes, the crisp air far from the that of the city filling our lungs. Boats bob in the turquoise water. A local offers four of us a thirty minute boat ride for 240P, which we are happy with. Clouds hang in the distance hugging dark outlines of nearby hills, bright green swamp reeds tracing the lake edge. Pelicans rest on rocks cautiously; but bright haciendas, where many American ex-pats reside; glare over the water from their high top hills. The beauty of the town itself, watching the sun go down over the lake and a beer, makes for a truly magical experience.
Getting There: You can take a direct bus from the Guadalajara Bus station, for about 45P and they leave every half hour. If hiring a car please read up on unwritten rules for driving in México… these highways and truck ‘cut ins’ show that each man is for himself. Its no short of terrifying. Make friends with a local or just take the bus. See here for more information.
Enjoy the Flavours of Ajiic
If driving to Chapala be sure to stop at the little town of Ajiic and hunt down the tienda that sells Garrafa, artisanal ice-cream home to México. They make it by solely with a flavour base ‘granita’, milk and ice. True granita is made only with natural ingredients and gives the ice-cream a coarser texture. Large pots are hand spun in a large wooden crate of ice with layers of salt, slowly creating the ice-cream. You can also taste Tejuino here made from fermented corn (so good!) or browse the cute craft store next door. Be sure to stop at La Iguana de Piedra Restauarnt for lunch just before the arriving in Ajiic. Soaking up the delicious views you can taste some local seafood dishes, and the “Submarine” cocktail: tequila, served with light beer, ice and a salt-lime rim. Yes, they have iguanas, too. And a white goat.
Experience True Tequila
Taste the history and sample the product in the UNESCO town of Tequila, only one hour from Guadalajara, it is magical to both visit and enjoy. The villagers carry an intense passion and are proud of their rich history, which is detailed in murals all over town. A fiesta vibe fill stye air with both professionals versed in the art of drinking and tourists versed in getting savagely drunk. In the insane heat, take advantage of little street cart refreshments: fermented corn ‘tejuino’ served with beer, or ice-cream based drink ‘Nieves de Garrafa’ whose exotic flavour selection has me a little overwhelmed. Also check out La Cepilla – the oldest bar in the town and recently voted 20th best bar in the world! This town is bound to send you in a frenzy of taste and visual sensations. For more about tequila production and aromas please check out my earlier post, here.
Tips for Tequila
Opt for paying a little more for a tour at Hacienda de Jose Cuervo than private tour companies, but save by making your own way there rather than a chartered bus tour. Buses leave from Guadalajara, at the Central Camionera Vieja (Old Bus Station). Privately run tour companies in the novelty barrel trucks are fun, and you can see the agave fields at little cost. But, it was not nearly as informative as Tequila company tours, probably because it was mostly catering to the Spanish speakers, and the tequila tasted was not great quality. The Tasting Experience at Jose Cuervo would be amazing, where they explain all the aromas of the various types for an additional $160P on top of the $200P tour (total = $34NZD).
Warning: The market is flooded with lots of spirits parading around pretending to be tequila. They’re not. Some precautions to take in reading a label can be found here, which is important to ensure you are not ripped off. Secondly, always make sure you see the original bottle when ordering in bars. Say “Peudo ver la botella de tequila por favour?” Because if it isn’t high quality, you can guarantee one mother of hangover.
Ultimately Guadalajara had great aspects but of the two months in México, the city itself did not strike awe into me. For this reason it is crucial to stay in a hostel, meet other travellers, to discover where the music and culture is really hidden. It was only when we made wonderful friends that we experienced the heart of the Jalisco province. After our first two, it was clear that there really was something beautiful to be discovered around every corner.
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