With just too much to write about, writer’s block and poor internet connection has been my enemy. In addition intense Spanish classes take all my energy, meaning I am massively behind in writing but making great progress in the language. Today I finally get to share The 5 Top Colonial UNESCO Towns in México – with a focus on the smaller ones. These were truly our highpoints, for their culture, food, ease of travel, beauty, character and history.
TOP TOWN #1: Guanuajato
After our first few days in Guadalajara, Jalisco, this was total paradise. The streets were packed with life and university students, scoping vistas; blindingly colourful houses and intriguing building designs dotting the dry wild hills that encircle the town. Pedestrians from all walks of life breeze streets as complex tunnel system for cars snakes beneath the ground.
Eat:
The most economical tactic to eat in México is to seek out a tienda of vegetables or a market place, and experiment at home or the kitchen in your hostel. Here we spent $8 for two days. Café Truco was highly recommended by several locals. Boasting quirky décor of historical images and memorabilia, a satisfying Chicken Sandwich was 22P ($2) and the whole experience was made halarious when the coffee machine blew up sending a chubby kid leaping 2 feet out of his chair.
Museo de los Mumias: 55 P ($5)
A highly creepy experience this Museum houses the smallest mummy in the world, making it the only one of its kind. The Guanuajato government started exhuming bodies between 1870 and 1958 when the poor families could not pay tax for a permanent burial until the tax was abolished. As so many bodies were often put into an above ground crypt in this extremely dry climate, they underwent instantaneous mummification preserving even the skin and hair. The myth is that some people were buried alive, suggested by the air captured in their bodies causing them to bloat grotesquely. You must forgive me for the below selfie, but who could resist the superimposed image captured by our resident Russian friend Andrey Andreev with his DSLR?
Architecture:
This was my first colonial town so the architecture was jaw dropping. Of all the cathedrals we saw in of México, ‘Arch Basilica of our Lady Guanajuato’ was the most spectacular by far. One can take the escalator for only 35P ($3) up to Monumento a Cristo Ray, for beautiful photos and panoramic views. Our biggest highlight is the University of Guanajuato, with many views the favourite requires a venture of steps, but the view is well worth the trip.
The La-de-da:
Famous for silver mining, the town acquired great wealth and so, Juarez Theater was built in late 1800s for the well-to-do. Complete with five balcony tiers and extensive ladies’ lounges, today public can enjoy this unique fusion of Spanish, Roman and Greek architecture or attend one of the many free shows. Very near is the centre Jardin Union, a marvelously quaint and pretty Zocalo where there is many a good coffee and live music to be had. Certainly most famous in this gorgeous, culture packed town is the marching band known as Callejonedas. It commences at 8.45 from El Mercado de Hidalgo every night; Mon, Tues and Weds is free with Thurs, Fri and Saturday for a small donation.
TOP TOWN #2: San Miguel de Allende
San Miguel de Allende was rated Top City in the World to visit by Reader’s Digest and it is not difficult to see why. The downside may be the 40% American expats buying up large… but the trade off is the injection of money this has added to the eatery scene and thus the traveller experience. Little stone streets snake this way and that, lush creeper flowers covering the local bridge and the views scope in to the distant plans unlike Guanajuato, which is isolated by its picturesque hill setting.
Any art goer can enjoy extensive murals, galleries and craft shops crammed into the narrow cobble streets meandering in all directions. Taste a true ‘Oaxaca’ chocolate at Mente Cocao – the most dedicated chocolate curator creates a 100% natural, balanced and soul warming example. Fresh ceviche fillets or divine chorizo inspire some delightful home cooking as I try my hand at local dishes. A host of vineyards are found less than 40 minutes drive from San Miguel it’s the perfect way to taste some of México’s wine. But by far the most magical experience if you’ve the budget ($60 USD), is day long horse-riding in true México-style through a nearby canon.
As Allende helped Hidalgo in the independence of Mexico there’s a pride that reverberates in the streets and in the chime of the church bells. The irony in Catholicsm cathedrals of course is that the Spanish forced their religion upon the indigenous cultures. The eerie statues of Jesus’ bloodied hands look down upon you from the corners of the Cathedral Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel. It is a new experience for me, though I like the peace and the greatness of them nevertheless. Pop across from the cathedral is El Jardine, a beautiful location to sit and people watch or wander the Museo de San Miguel Allende to learn more about history of the town and the independence. Located four blocks from the centre is Jaurez Park, it’s a very romantic walk especially on market day when hundreds of flower displays show.
TOP TOWN #3: Peubla
Although Guanuajato was my first taste of a captivating colonialism on offer, Puebla is like the cool little sister. It’s a breath of fresh air between México City and Oaxaca. The whole town has so much to offer in the way of exploring markets, museums, a skyline studded with church domes, not to mention the people ‘vibe’. Ever-flowing smiles rather than looking like the trials of the day had worn them thin. In the weekends, the narrow street of Paseo Bravo (Calle 11 Sur) is a hive of activity with kids, office workers, food carts and entertainment, it’s the perfect place to relax and observe in the shade.
Daytime admire the beautifully built Bibiloteca Palafoxiana -only the oldest outside Europe- or marvel the breathtakingly gold intricacy of Rosary Chapel in the Cathedral Santo Domingo Church (first above). Night the Cathedral of Peubla in the Zócalo lights up (second above), and a number West one can roam to the Alley of the Frogs (Callejon de los Sopas). An inspiring flea and antique market becomes a lively musical atmosphere at night. Nearby local sell art at Barrio del Artista, Galería del Palacio (Porto Hidalgo 12, Centro) brings contemporary art to the Municipal Palace or a wander around, whilst Amparo Museum (Avienda 2, Sur) holds for the largest collection pre-Hispanic art in the country or many more museums to be found here.
Top Right and Clockwise: Barrio del Artista and Alley of the Frogs
For all of this the people of Peubla are most proud of their food. Filled with indulgencies, the town boasts home to Chicken Mole Sauce (chocolate, nuts, chiles and spices) for which locals recommend Fonda La Mexicano, Chiles en Nogado (peppers stuffed with meat, fruits and nuts topped with walnut sauce) at most markets or succulent Al Pastor (mixed meat flavoured with pineapple topped with green-red salsa) best found at local institution Las Ranas where a feast with beers for two comes in at $9. Fifth generation Nevados Restaruant was the perfect spot to look out over the Zócalo whilst enjoying some typical dishes, local wine or the famous ice-cream shots ‘Nevados’.
El Pastor at Las Ranas or Enjoy Chicken Mole with local wines at Nevados Restaruant.
For a fantastic day trip, travel a few miles by collective to Cholula. There’s a pyramid stacked with trapezoids that is a actually a third larger than the pyramid of Giza, but cannot be further excavated due to 16th century church the Spanish built on top. One can still walk through the centre tunnels to observe from the inside, or the few excavating archealogical sites around the outside. The church is plain as a daisy but on a good day the views of highly active volcano Popocatépetl are well worth turning a stair ninja for.
TOP TOWN #4: Campeche
Campeche is unique and fun in its own right. Street lamps illuminate the cobble stone roads as the sun rises to greet us after our overnight bus journey, the houses all shades of a painter’s pastel palette. The smell a sweet sea breeze is calm reprieve. Fortress walls, that were built in the 16th century to protect the town from pirate renegades were being restored while we were there. Peurta de Tierra, a museum, holds several artifacts including Pirates of the Caribbean-like weaponry, also the gateway to walk the wall where you can really get a taste of the history presiding within.
The Fort of San Miguel and there is one beach both about 6 miles from town, but we simply couldn’t fathom the travel there in 38 degree heat and so our experience here ranked #4. Streets were a little more unkempt, our first ocean sight in six weeks fish smelling and unattractive. Without heat exhaustion many activities to be found. Partake in chocolate classes, or make the day trips to the Ednzá Ruins, or go completely off the beaten to track to the Calakmul ruins. Hidden deep in the rainforest bordering Guatemla, the ruins are in the process of being restored but the jungle has jaguars and the views are spectacular.
TOP TOWN #5: Morelia
This is on the list of Top 5 UNESCO towns of Mexico here, but sadly the region of Michocan is the most dangerous in the country. Missing persons and many atrocities occur as the drug gangs, locals and government arm themselves. Busses on fire, gunshots and murders were all images rampant in the media in 2013 and so it will be a while before the reputation to visit every comes back. It’s a real shame because the town used to be tourist hub, home to the Monarch Butterfly migration and some divine architecture, its picturesque and lively.
We believe that México is just as safe as anywhere else, and evidence proves murder statistics are virtually on par with the United States. However as with any place, there can be bad areas that give México its dangerous repoiré. One should be prudent with safety anywhere you travel. Prevention techniques like not travelling alone, in dark areas, with your backpack or expensive equipment is all common sense. If you do your research before hand you will find it easy to take such precautions whilst taking in the beauty, culture and wonder that is Central America.
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